I’ve been  rather shell-shocked since completing the 30 Day Dress, and knew the only way back to the sewing machine was through an instant gratification project.

This pink and fuchsia cotton jersey from Mood Fabrics was one of those fabrics I ordered just because…….

 and it turned out to be my saving grace. Buy a fabric you love and the pattern will appear ;)

I couldn’t think beyond the word  e a s y  and selected Simplicity 1613, View D – a great remedy for the jaded sewer!

View D requires crosswise stretch only so most any knit will work, but this cotton feels quite wonderful against my skin.

I discovered the pattern runs slightly large – ok for now since my top is very casual, but I plan to cut a smaller size next time. 

And there will be a next time – maybe in a linen jersey (very Eileen Fisher) or a metallic jersey which is popping up everywhere.

But now it’s time to head back to more involved projects, and I’m super excited about my next one in DVF Lace.

Until soon!

In my book, the best season of all started Monday -

H a p p y   S u m m e r   E v e r y o n e  !
It’s time for warm weather, fresh produce, beach vacations and carefree clothing :)

I’m celebrating with a new dress sewn in Oscar de la Renta’s Turquoise Border Print Cotton Twill from Mood Fabrics. I ordered the fabric last summer which is no longer available, but do check out Moods’ fabulous border prints HERE.

This dress marks my second attempt at sewing a Vintage pattern. Inspired by one of my favorite television shows, That Girl! I ordered this 1966 McCall’s pattern (8948) as a Mother-of-the-Bride dress contender.

The pattern has now been reduced to Luau status, but that’s OK .

At last I have found a true shift pattern that is not boxy on me, which I attribute to the nice shaping of the long curved front darts. Originating at the hips and ending at the top of the bodice, they practically disappear into the print.

Since the fabric is slightly heavy with a little stretch, I safely eliminated the lining. I also laid the pattern pieces out on the cross grain to incorporate the border along the top of the dress.

What about the crisscrossed straps you ask?

I had a vision for the turquoise crisscrossed straps, and cut the fabric so the white geometric border would begin on the inside of the strap (at the front of the dress) and end on the outside of the strap at the back. It was CUTE! Sadly, the fabric buckled between the straps no matter what remedy I attempted.

One more issue surfaced which knocked the pattern out of MOB contention. The top of the pattern was big requiring larger side seams and resulting in uneven edges along the upper edge of the bodice. The back was uncomfortably low. I added a 1 ½ inch strip of fabric to the back, but now my perfectly sewn invisible zipper no longer reached the top of the dress.

When Hubby gave the dress a B, I retreated to isolation. Recalling Susan Khalje’s words of wisdom I remembered that a pattern is just the starting point. Then I uncrossed the straps and got creative.
What do you think?

Let the summer begin!

Once again, the spirits of Marcy the Medium have influenced my fabric selection!

“You need more yellow in your life,” she stated.

I think I ordered the best yellow a n y t h i n g  ever available, for Mood Fabrics’ Theory Light Canary Striped Viscose Ponte Blend  has more than surpassed my expectations!

 I wasn’t ready to put away the pattern from my last project (New Look 6210) quite yet – especially since the fit had been tweaked to perfection. Besides, I had set out to make a maxi and ended up with a short dress. The phenomenal drape of this fabric begged for a maxi and frankly, how could I resist?

My only new alteration was to add an inch of fabric to the front lower armsyce for better coverage.

Since the fabric/pattern combination screams summer, I opted for the racer back rendition – a first for me.

What took four days to make last week took four hours to make this week, due in part to this beautifully behaved viscose ponte knit. No slipping, no sliding, no curling and it is perfectly on grain.

Too good to be true?

NO!

Too good to pass up! Check it out :)

Just as hubby started taking pictures in the backyard the snake appeared scaring us to the front where the light wasn’t as good. Ugh – it’s the one drawback about summer in the South….

 …but there is nothing better than frolicking through the warm summer breezes in lightweight clothes that greet the heat with a smile.

Those cute boutique gauze tops I saw last week might have been tempting had the Marc Jacobs white cotton gauze from Mood Fabrics not been on its way to my door.

Sewing with gauze moved me straight into a peace, love and happiness state of mind – almost.

The open weave of the fabric first reminded me of the sterile material used for dressing wounds, but one quick trip through the washing machine transformed the mummy like material into a softly crinkled cotton sporting a billowy drape.

My pattern is McCall’s 6928 and this is my official ‘just for fun’ summer top.

Sewing twists, turns and knots can easily lead me astray but not so this time. The bow and knot are easy to assemble. Several layers come together where the knot, the bow and the front of the blouse are sewn into the neck facing, but sewing with lightweight fabric prevents bulk from accumulating at the focal point of the top.

The pattern runs large and is quite full, leading me to reduce the armscye and remove several inches from the sweep. However, it was  easy to get it just the way I wanted it.

The bow is tacked to the front of the blouse which is another reason a lightweight fabric should be used for this pattern. All seams were stitched and finished with the serger. The bias strip facings were turned and slipstitched, and the top was hemmed with a narrow machine hem.

There is serious sewing and there is fun sewing, and I can’t bear the thought of so much fun coming to an end ……..

… so now perhaps,  just for fun I will return to the backyard and charm the snake off of the patio and into the woods :)

Have a good one!

More fabric to die for……. I was sold upon reading Mood Fabrics’ narrative of this silk/viscose blend and placed it in my online cart.

 ‘The drape on this silk and viscose blend fabric is just so perfect, and then when you combine it with the glazed metallic sheen…well, you have a fabric that’s to die for. Lightweight and softly pliable. Perfect for tops, dresses, unconstructed jackets and more.’

Seriously, how could I resist?

The fabric didn’t disappoint ~ actually I want more!

Slippery, you think? Nope.

Flimsy, you suspect? Nope.

The backing on the fabric produces the perfect texture for machine sewing.

I’m devoted to sewing holiday attire for the next few weeks and couldn’t pass up the giant bow on Butterick 5850!

The silk/viscose worked beautifully with the pattern in every aspect. The gathered skirt is attached to a fitted back.

 I typically shy away from gathered waistlines, but I wanted that bow! The sash cinches the waist, helping camouflage the bulk that gathers can produce, and I found the fitted back flattering.

I was forced to move the photos to indoor light. Look at the difference.

  
However, I sacrificed the high resolution in order the capture the sheen of the fabric. 

 Fitting issues plagued my sewing which I’ll review in detail on the Pattern Review website. In short they included the enormous armscye. I removed three inches from each arm which affected the dart……. The shoulders are not cut in as they appear on the pattern illustration.

The effect is created by the pleat at the back of the neck. The ties are designed as a single layer with the wrong side showing when bowed. I folded the fabric in half, sewed right sides together and turned to avoid the showing the wrong side. I also removed 10 inches from the length of each tie. Being left-handed I placed the zipper on left side rather than the right – one of the joys of sewing!

At any rate, I made the pattern work and am ready for the first holiday party or maybe the last on New Year’s Eve

 Except…….. I think this dress needs a fur.

Faux fur sewing tips, anyone?

Until soon

Some fabrics are meant to be worn at night, and I believe this shimmery metallic boucle from Mood Fabrics is certainly one of them.

 I bought the fabric at the NYC store in November 2012, and admired it at home for over a year while waiting for a vision to appear. Perhaps, a coat, a suit, or another French jacket……

And then -  it came upon a midnight clear

After nearly three weeks of no sewing I was eager to make something festive and chose the classic Butterick 5588 pattern as my base (available on Etsy).

Since the fabric is relatively heavy I wanted to avoid bulky darts as well as fullness and believed the princess seams would compliment the fabric. I completed a full muslin in View B before cutting the shoulders off of the front, gradually angling to the underarm.

I used the lower edge of the side back as my guide and cut straight across the back.

 After tweaking the fit until the dress was tight enough to wear strapless, I added 1 ¼” straps to increase the comfort level.

Would you believe I looked for a complimentary trim for over a year?

Nothing seemed to pop to my novice eye, but last week while browsing through the winter wonderland of festive clothes at Nordstrom, I noticed the Alice + Oliva Boxman jacket seen below…

 … and realized I had my own trim waiting at home.

Pulling the neutral-color threads from a 1 ¾” strip of fabric resulted in a metallic fringe. After the dress was completed, I attached the fringe by hand around the top of the bodice. I was tempted to add it to the straps and around the bottom, but thankfully good judgment prevailed.

My new party dress is lined with this China silk also purchased at Mood .

It’s true, the fabric is lovely during the day …..

but it truly comes to life when the sun goes down!

If only I could do the same!

Fa-la-la-la-la-la-la-la-la

Santa Baby,

Leave a sable underneath the tree for me…… 

While waiting for Santa, I sewed one more holiday dress, this one for a January wedding.

I have never seen a Carolina Herrera I didn’t love which includes this cobalt blue paisley silk brocade from Mood Fabrics.

Yum……. I was sold on the color alone until the fabric arrived. The quality of this brocade is unlike any I have seen or touched. It’s that good, and once again I found myself scared to cut my fabric.

What would Carolina do?

Santa baby……. give me an answer!

 I made a muslin from an old Vogue pattern –  8532, now available on Etsy and Ebay.

Then, an amazing thing happened. It fit perfectly with only a minimal length adjustment in the bodice!

No sliding off of the shoulder, no gaping neckline.

I believe! I believe!

Fortunately I was able to fast forward sewing the dress after making the muslin. I lined it with perfectly matching Bemberg rayon lining,

and veered into the pop scene with a metal zipper.

One tip I must share came from the recent Craftsy class I bought,

40 Techniques Every Sewer Should Know – Gail Yellen

I learned how to remove excess ease from a sleeve cap in a matter of seconds. Typically the perfect amount of ease is approximately 1 ¼ – 1 ½ “.  Gail Yellen explains how to measure for and removed excessive ease from a sleeve cap by

1: measuring the distance between the single and double notch on the sleeve and  in the armscye.

2: If the difference is greater than 1 ½ “, simply skim off the top of the sleeve.

     
That’s it.

And now all is calm, all is bright.

Merry Christmas to all and to all a good night

Disclosure:  Recently I became a Craftsy affiliate and receive compensation when you purchase classes or join Craftsy. I agreed to  become a Craftsy affiliate after several successful Craftsy experiences. With the exception of Sew the Perfect Fit, I have purchased all Craftsy classes and provide an honest class review and opinion.The compensation received will never influence the content of this blog.

What do you get when you cross an Oscar de la Renta Taffeta with a Kay Unger pattern and a left-handed seamstress?

 It’s not the first time I’ve sewn the mirror image of an asymmetrical pattern and I doubt it will be my last

 I  a m  s o  h a p p y  to be sewing whatever strikes my fancy again at the Mood Sewing Network!

As soon as I wrapped up the final post-wedding details, I retrieved this Oscar de la Renta Poppy Red Floral Silk Taffeta from my Mood Fabrics stash. The bright colors and cheerful design were just what the doctor ordered to get me back to the sewing machine after a summer of wedding duties

www.goodbyevalentino.com #oscar de la renta, vogue patterns

Perhaps I could have gone the instant gratification route, but with the pressure off I had fun making a muslin, fitting a pattern and even using a new zipper technique! I purchased my pattern, Vogue 1303 nearly three years ago at a glance on sale. Upon later reading the instructions I realized the midriff sash is actually a waist inset without petite adjustments.

The muslin was not a pretty picture and I quickly knew this bias cut waist inset would not work for me.

My solution was to cut and sew the waist lining pattern pieces as the inset since they were easier to alter and free of bulk. Once the dress fit, I made a bias cut lined sash, placed it over the inset, and basted the ends along the seamlines.

www.goodbyevalentino.com #oscar de la renta, vogue patterns

I assumed the large floral fabric would be forgiving, but fortunately, there was nothing to forgive! The taffeta is the perfect fabric choice for holding the crisp pleats in the sash, and the alterations surprisingly worked like a charm.

I also discovered taffeta offers versatility beyond formal attire!

www.goodbyevalentino.com #oscar de la renta, vogue patterns

Thanks to the Craftsy Mastering Zipper Techniques Class  which is a FREE class,  I inserted my first issue-free lapped zipper in less than 10 minutes!

www.goodbyevalentino.com #oscar de la renta, vogue patterns

It’s true – all of the sewing I’ve done over the last three years and no lapped zipper.

But the best lesson of all this week was rediscovering the pleasure of  pursuing a passion  when unencumbered by external pressures and stress. Happiness can be hard to define sometimes but I know it when I feel it!

www.goodbyevalentino.com #oscar de la renta, vogue patterns

Until soon

Disclosure:  I am pleased to be a Craftsy affiliate and receive compensation when you purchase classes or join Craftsy. I agreed to  become a Craftsy affiliate after several successful Craftsy experiences. With the exception of Sew the Perfect Fit, I have purchased all Craftsy classes and provide an honest class review and opinion.The compensation received will never influence the content, topics or posts made in this blog.

Hubs and I were among the passengers of some 2,000 cancelled flights to Chicago this past weekend………. The only upside of missing our friends’ wedding was the unexpected weekend of sewing time, and I resumed my tunic mission.

Better?

Many thanks for providing such great suggestions for raising the bar on tunic sewing. I especially enjoyed receiving this Pinterest link loaded with tunic inspiration! Like many of you said it’s in the details and I got busy modifying the Simplicity 4149 tunic pattern I made last year.

Relaxing the fit of my existing muslin allowed for a better drape which is easy to see when compared to my first top from this pattern.

My fabric, a lightweight silk twill from Mood Fabrics is one I selected last November at the store from hundreds of silk prints. The contrast is a deep gold silk shantung given to me by a friend.

Instructions for contrast are not provided in the pattern, but a contrast is easy to achieve by reversing the application of the placket and neckband to the inside of the garment and folding them over to the outside.

French seams were used everywhere except in the sleeve inset.

I added two inches to the length of the tunic which includes the contrast band.

I also lengthened the sleeve.

  After experimenting with various widths I found an appealing uniformity in keeping the placket, sleeve and lower band equal widths.

As I enter the 9^th month of the year-long Ready-to-Wear Fast, I plan to focus on what I intended to do in the first place – sew stylish  e v e r y d a y  clothing. My closet is suffering in this area as I became sidetracked sewing several special occasion garments.

A couple of more tunics are in order for sure

 Until soon!

Greetings from Talbots

Hmmm…… my last two garments have turned out rather so-s0.

Contrary to most of the clothes I’ve sewn during the last year, my life is not an endless parade of beach vacations and parties. (Such a pity!)

Let’s look at the latest. My pattern is Vogue 9017.

I am trying to remedy my lack of everyday clothes with a few practical choices, and selected a gray ponte knit from Mood Fabrics.

It’s a lovely fabric. Mood Fabrics compares this particular ponte to a gray wool suiting, and the weave of varying shades of gray give the fabric an appealing depth of color.

I could not pass up the interesting lines found in the sketch of Vogue 9017, a pattern designed for woven fabrics and stable knits.

  I particularly like the raised and curved waistline,

and slim silhouette!

 Since all knits behave differently, I rarely make a muslin for knit clothing and did not make one for this dress. I adjusted the bodice length on all of the pattern pieces and fit myself as I went along. Rarely do I experience an issue free sewing project, but the pattern is well-drafted, and the ponte sewed very nicely.

To give the dress a sportier appearance I shortened the sleeves and used a contemporary zipper.

 Once again I turned to the free Craftsy Mastering Zipper Techniques Class for zipper guidance, and am pleased with the result!

But overall, my dress is rather lackluster.

Below is the garment I completed last week.

The pattern is Butterick 4856, which is out of print. Continuing on my tunic quest, I used a cotton voile from Mood Fabrics. Fall colors in a lightweight fabric seemed perfect to me. The tunic had a nice drape until I sewed a heavier band around the bottom. I also believe I should have added a black trim around the neckline rather than gold studs.

Here I am at a football game.

As much as I want to sew wardrobe staples, I’m finding the goal difficult to reach with pizzazz.

But I’m not giving up!

 Until soon

Although sewing Halloween costumes are but fond memories these days,  I could not resist the vivid holiday colors in this Scuba Knit ordered from B & J Fabrics.

What does the dress really look like under the 20-year old Eileen Fisher cardigan, you wonder?

Here is the front,

and here is the back

What a fun dress this was to sew!

If you have never sewn with Scuba Knit I encourage you to try it. Many scuba knits feature high-resolution digital printing almost resembling photographs. It is nearly impossible to make a garment too tight when sewing with this fabric  - scuba knit is easy to handle, and at the moment, it  is the fabric of choice for many clothing manufacturers.

The pattern is McCall’s 6920; a current company pattern and a new pattern for me.

The black contrast is a fine multi-purpose polyester knit I purchased at Mood Fabrics in November 2013. I bought lots of it and predict it will be showing up with regularity. Once again I followed Sunni Standing’s excellent instructions in the free Craftsy Mastering Zipper Techniques Class.

After making my usual bodice adjustments in length, I took readers’ advice to heart and made it fitted

 but it is anything other than a ‘stand up only’ dress thanks to the stretch!

 I’ve tried to stick to sewing all-purpose clothes this fall and find dresses so much easier to sew than tops. Why is that?

Whatever the reason, I’m happy to have a dress that will serve me well through Thanksgiving!

____________________

And now, the lucky giveaway winner of Karolyn Kiisel’s fabulous Draping Book. 

C o n g r a t u l a t i o n s   to

ELEANOR SCHREYER

Please contact me by Monday November 3, at goodbyevalentino@gmail.com or another winner will be selected.

Best wishes to all for a fun-filled and safe Halloween

B O O !

What’s more valuable than a Caped Crusader? An artist… I spiraled into a 6-day funk and not a single Caped Crusader came to my rescue. It’s been rough, dear Readers. After one too many close calls I felt my success rate was on the decline and so were my spirits. I questioned my sewing, my taste and my use of time. After avoiding my sewing room for days, a friend convinced me to take my own advice and finish the cape I’m wearing. I’ve owned this Vogue pattern since the day I saw Renee’s cape (Miss Celle’s Pants)  nearly two years ago. I took nothing about the pattern into consideration like I generally do, such as ‘What will this pattern look like on me? How will this pattern fit me? ’ I simply wanted a cape like Renee’s for a recent outdoor event I was co-hosting.
I studied the pattern instructions and maintained organization through each step. When I reached the anticipated stage to try on the cape, everything about it seemed wrong sending me into an undesirable state of mind, and my sewing came to a screeching halt.
Has this ever happened to you?
Inspirational quotes made me nauseous, and Hubs felt helpless. The event passed, my cape remained unfinished, and I felt like a failure.

Monday, my friend Becky came over to use my serger and encouraged me to finish the cape. After all, I publicly vowed to finish all of my sewing projects.

________________________________________

I credit the HBO YoungArts MasterClass series for getting me back on track! As I began my hand sewing I watched three recorded shows from the series and saw:

• Violinist Joshua Bell advise his students to perform as much music and as many pieces as humanly possible which quickly translated to sew as many types of garments as I could.

• Broadway royalty Patti Lupone remind her students not to be afraid to fail. “You never learn from successes because you want to repeat them.”

• Renowned artist, James Rosenquist share his story of losing his  home, archives and all belongings to a freak forest fire in Florida

Before I knew it the cape was finished.

________________________________________

Here’s the skinny
The cute pattern is out of print but still available through Vogue Patterns. Several renditions can be seen on the PR website. The cape is unlined with no provisions for petite alterations. Assuming the pattern ran large, I made an XS (4 – 6) unfortunately skipping the muslin. The muslin would have shown me that the pockets are a little low. The muslin would have shown me the collar is too tall to button and wear as seen in the illustration above. It would have shown me that the cape is too long, and the overall fit is more like a loose coat on me. I also might have altered my fabric choice from this fantastic brown and white wool knit from Mood Fabrics - to something a little lighter weight. Following the pattern instructions I cut the facings from the fashion fabric which made the cape very heavy.
The upside is the garment has great movement, and is quite warm! Taking the lead from other sewists, I opted for snaps as closures and sewed the buttons on for decorative purposes.
Thankfully I’ve emerged from the dark hole. I even want to sew the pattern again with a few alterations, but more importantly come the life lessons that we can apply to each endeavor we pursue. 

In my case - sew more, learn more and be more Best wishes, everyone!

Next up – a lovely guest post from RTW Faster, Julie Starr.

Dear Readers ~ Many thanks for your enthusiastic responses to my last post! It was simply heartwarming to hear from you

The end of the year roundup is not one of my favorite posts to write. I find it difficult to choose favorites with anything. I can’t name my favorite song, meal, movie, book or vacation spot, however I find it very important to review, reflect and learn from my experiences.

Sewing during 2014 took on a life of its own with a second Ready-to-Wear Fast accompanied by a wedding. I bought nothing yet sewed fewer garments than I expected, which I attribute to the short leash I was on, the fear of making a less than perfect MOB dress and my December break. But did I ever learn how to sew dresses!

If I must choose a favorite dress it’s Vogue 1303. The sewing experience was fun and the dress just makes me happy.

The sewing project I am most proud of is the MOB dress, Vogue 8766. The sewing experience tested my fortitude, and wearing the dress at my daughter’s wedding tested my chutzpah for sure.

But if I judge my favorite garment based on what received the most wear, I might declare Katie Spade Skirt Number 3 as the winner.

The misses are easy to pinpoint! I have much to learn about drafting my own patterns and working with trims,

and as painful as it is, I must remember I am not 25 anymore

During 2014 Goodbye Valentino received significant publicity. I was honored to be featured in Vogue Patterns Magazine, the Schmetz Needles publication, The Spartanburg Magazine, as well as being named one of the top 50 sewing blogs by Burda!

Once again, I offer a huge thank you to Mood Fabrics for its generous supply of fabric and publicity through the Mood Sewing Network.

It was a very good year dear Readers!

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

CONGRATULATIONS TO ALL 2014 RTW FASTERS WHO COMPLETED THE YEAR WITHOUT BUYING A SINGLE GARMENT!

The RTW Fasters have truly knocked my socks off by sewing terrific clothes. Their sewing mojo inspired and challenged me throughout the year! I asked the Fasters for one word to describe their the year-long fast and received the following:

Liberating – Challenging – Adventurous – Strengthening – Inspiring – Fun – Self Awareness – Refreshing – Couture – Focusing – Enlightening – Encouraging – Reaffirming ………..

Might I add the word Disciplined ? I faced many temptations this year but made it through thanks company of these committed women!

So now it’s time to celebrate with a shopping trip……… or not

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

2015 RTW Fast

Many of you have asked if I am planning a 2015 RTW Fast. I will  sponsor a RTW Fast for those who would like to take the challenge during 2015.

To be included, send your name, photo and an online photo album or blog address to goodbyevalentino@gmail.com Fasters will be featured on Goodbye Valentino and connected with others taking the pledge.

I will not be fasting from RTW during 2015, because guess what?
My younger daughter became engaged last week so I have another wedding to plan! I will certainly be sewing but I want to avoid the stress I endured this past year.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

 Giveaway Winner

A big congratulations to MARGARET WINTERS, the winner of The Swatch Book! Please contact me at goodbyevalentino@gmail.com no later than Sunday January 3 or a new winner will be selected.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

What a year it has been and what a year it will be! I hope you will celebrate your originality during the coming year through creative endeavors and by just being you

Best wishes and Happy New Year to all!

Maybe it’s just me but on January 2, I was craving an oversized shirt to hide my holiday indulgences…. and when I’m in an unattractive state of mind, the  fabric I like to turn to is silk.

This Famous Designer Black and Off-White Animal Print Crepe de Chine was the perfect antidote for my post holiday doldrums.

 I feel better already!

My pattern of choice was Simplicity 2447, but it wasn’t just oversized, it was supersized!

 Before cutting into the silk I made a full muslin which required one alteration after another. The photo below shows the muslin after the excess is pinned out of the princess seams and (the photo left) armscye.

It’s not easy being short Check out the bunching of fabric in the back after I removed two inches of length from the bodice……..

To eliminate the excess from the muslin I followed Lynda Maynard’s directions from her Craftsy Class, Sew the Perfect Fit by horizontally slicing the back pattern piece at the waist to the edge of the paper. By creating a wedge I eliminated the bulk from the middle of the back without affecting the length. Fortunately, my new roll of Pattern Paper from Mood Fabrics served me well as I transferred my alterations to a new pattern piece.

It helped re-draw the pattern on grain and assisted in keeping my alterations precise as I drafted a new pattern piece from the alterations.  For those making constant pattern alterations, I believe the huge roll of paper is worth the $30 investment Check it out HERE.

After eliminating the bulk from the back, I left the back length longer than the front.

My one regret was not ordering an extra ½ yard of the silk. I did not have enough fabric for a full collar and settled on the collar stand featured in View D.

I cut all pattern pieces with a new rotary blade and used pattern weights (along with a very few pins) to prevent slipping.  All of the careful measuring, pinning and fitting were worth the time, as I believe oversized garments should fit just as well as fitted ones.

Sewing a casual style in silk crepe de chine was true luxury for me. Whether worn with an old pair or cords or my new Marcy Tilton leggings, the combination of style and fabric yields a top that is the epitome of comfort and a great wardrobe extender.

Hubby hasn’t seen it yet but I know what his reaction will be……..

“ It’s pretty, but I like fitted clothes and shirts that tuck in better.”

 Presto!

 Gotta love the versatility of a silk blouse !

Until soon

How many times have you seen a ready-to-wear garment that you KNEW you could make… if only you had the pattern?

That was certainly my reaction upon seeing this Akris Punto dress, and when I noticed some similarities in Vogue 9022 to the $995.00 dress, I couldn’t resist. True, the pattern is split vertically rather than horizontally, but I was feeling adventurous, and besides, I loved the pockets.

How did I do?

What I really like about the Akris Punto dress is its unstructured but not too oversized nature. I have avoided kimono sleeves because they appear so large, however, Vogue describes this pattern as fitted.

After making the muslin I sewed the dress one size smaller (X-Small). A little tweaking on the sleeves and an adjustment in the back seam gave me the fit I was seeking.

The fabric content of the Akris Punto dress is 52% acetate 48% viscose. My dress is sewn in lightweight wool crepe ordered from Mood Fabrics last year. It is unlined and does not wrinkle or itch. I also used the same fabric in this skirt last year.

I took my daughter’s advice to eliminate the back vent, split the side seams and leave the back longer keeping the dress on trend.

To color block the sleeves, I traced the upper front and back pattern pieces to pattern paper. Starting at the bottom of the sleeve I split the pattern piece in half  but eventually eyeballed it once I came to the underarm curve. How scientific is that?

Afterwards, I added a seam allowance to the new pattern pieces and was quite relieved when all of the pieces matched up in the muslin! If I try this again, I plan to eliminate the upper front seams.

Many thanks to Akris Punto for inspiring me to try a new style, for I would have overlooked the cute Vogue pattern otherwise.

I’m so pleased with the result that I splurged on a new pair shoes but sadly I’m not as warm as I look. I’ll be wearing my dress with black tights and boots for the next several weeks while sewing with warm sunny thoughts in mind!

Until soon

How  do you like our six inches of snow?

We get ridiculously excited about every winter storm warning in the South, wipe out the grocery stores and cancel events in anticipation of snow. This ‘winter storm’ I hit the sewing machine with a color hot enough to melt the ice off the patio.

When the skies turned gray my eye turned to this bright pink boucle on the Mood Fabrics website. It is soft, it is happy and it is well-behaved

My pattern is Vogue 9022  sewn last month in a color block style with Mood’s black and white wool crepe. This time I sewed the pattern straight up; a much easier undertaking. I took extra precaution to prevent raveling and stretching by rushing to the sewing machine after cutting each piece to stay-stitch curved edges, followed by finishing all of the edges on every pattern piece on the serger.

I discovered the enjoyment of creating boucle fringe (blogged here) and couldn’t resist embellishing the pockets and cuffs with self fringe. It’s a breeze to make by cutting strips on the cross grain, stay- stitching 1/2 inch from the edge and raveling to the stay stitch.

I made a double fringe trim for the pockets which I applied with a topstitch before sewing the side seams together. The sleeves are trimmed with a single fringe which was sewn right side down to the sleeve then flipped over and top stitched.

Speaking of topstitching, I find boucle is one of the easiest fabrics to topstitch! In addition to the fringe I topstitched the two front center seams and around the neckline.

The jeweled pocket buttons are recycled from an old Talbots’ sweater.

The boucle has a lovely drape, and is quickly rising on my list of favorite fabrics! With the exception of being prone to raveling, the fabric is perfect.

So here’s to boucle (not just for French Jackets), embellishing easy patterns and fast melting snow!

Stay warm :)

Just a skirt?…… Not to me!

When the DVF floral bordered cotton lace arrived on my doorstep last Spring from Mood Fabrics, I knew it deserved the royal treatment, but I didn’t expect this special fabric to be in queue for nearly a year.

Greetings from Scottsdale, Arizona, the new hometown of my daughter and son-in-law.  It’s only 2,019 miles away from South Carolina.

I once heard Susan Khalje say that she could keep someone busy for an entire week sewing a pencil skirt. Now, I know what she means, for I spent one week making my couture pencil skirt. The skirt consists of 4 layers – the lace, cotton oxford, silk organza and bemberg rayon lining.

I cut the fabric on the crosswise grain to take advantage of the scalloped border. Then I spent a day securing the oxford to the lace so it would behave as one piece of fabric. In the beginning I knotted and clipped my thread after each stitch, but found that simply knotting was enough.

The silk organza became layer number 3, which was basted to the lace and oxford cloth. In couture sewing the seam line is traced onto every pattern piece and seam allowances are generous. Since this is my 5th Katie Spade skirt to sew, I was tempted to skip this step and cut a 5/8″ allowance. Now I am thankful I followed the rule as all of the layering can affect the fabric edges and throw off the entire fit of the garment.

The pattern, modeled after the Kate Spade Judy skirt is truly my favorite skirt to sew with no front darts and beautiful shaping along the side seams. The waistband sits at the waist and is not only comfortable but perfect for those rare tuck-in occasions. I may move the zipper to side the next time around.

   
Sadly, this lace is no longer available, but here is a link to Mood Fabrics’  lace. The oxford cloth was from my stash, and the whisper white silk organza and bemberg rayon linings are readily available from Mood.

I intended to make a two piece dress for my daughter’s Bridesmaids’ Luncheon last August using the vintage McCall’s pattern 8500. While the event has changed my pattern intentions have not, and I hope to be back soon with the second half of my outfit and an entirely different look!

Best wishes

What a difference a top makes!

Some people are born to sew couture. It relaxes them they say……

I get that, but before undertaking a couture garment, I always take a deep breath and try to prepare myself for the time commitment couture sewing requires. To date, I have underestimated the time commitment of every project.

But now it’s time to celebrate!

As mentioned in the previous DVF skirt post,  I ordered the lilac cotton lace from Mood Fabrics last Spring, envisioning a two-piece dress for my daughter’s Bridesmaids’ luncheon on August 22, 2014.  I even took the fabric to Susan Khalje’s class in Baltimore last April with the vintage McCalls pattern, but I could not pass up the opportunity to sew with Valentino satin face chiffon under Susan’s guidance.

All was not lost or wasted – just delayed 365 days

Frankly, I wouldn’t have known how to go about sewing the top (or skirt) were it not for investing in two previous Susan Khalje classes. I needed both  for Susan’s instruction and the inspiration provided by my classmates.

Just like the skirt  blogged here, the top consists of four layers of fabric which include the heavy cotton lace, oxford cloth, silk organza and Bemberg rayon lining.  Some readers questioned the weight of oxford cloth as an underlining. It worked out great for the skirt, but I sought the advice from friends with lots of couture sewing experience before proceeding with the vintage McCall’s 8500 pattern.

Vintage patterns are an excellent for couture projects since the patterns have marked seam lines; the main ingredient in couture sewing. To no surprise I made several alterations marked in blue on the muslin

I considered sewing a princess seam pattern because I feared the pattern’s eight darts would be bulky with the layering. Splitting the two bust darts and catch-stitching the waist and back darts to the organza easily solved the problem.

In the photo below you can see:

• the long vertical dart catch-stitched to the organza
• the stitches used to secure the lace to the oxford cloth before the organza is applied
• a pink vertical basting stitch to ensure no slipping
• lastly, the edge of the organza and the oxford cloth and zigzagged together since the scallop edge of the lace serves as the hem

Eliminating the two top back darts and replacing them with dead darts  made for a smoother back.

The three horizontal lines in  photo below illustrates the three alterations I made to remove excess bulk.

The zipper is concealed in the side seam. The pattern provides a facing for the neck and arms, but I sewed a full lining. The DVF lace is no longer available at Mood, but I believe a heavy lace such as this guipure lace would sew similarly.

So there you have it….. eight months too late for the Bridesmaids’ luncheon but just in time for a new wedding season

Until Soon

Greetings from the nation’s number one wedding destination spot, Charleston, SC!

Hubs and I are in the Old Village of Mt. Pleasant, just across the bridge from Charleston. We’re staying in an inn above one of our favorite restaurants and attending a wedding in a historic home on the Ashley River.

So is there anything better to wear while strolling amidst the gentle breezes and tree-lined streets of this charming city than a white cotton voile tunic?

The tunic was a work in progress beginning with my own pattern and this delightful polka dot cotton voile from Mood Fabrics. After cutting the bodice I knew it needed to be lined or worn with a camisole. I chose to underline the bodice with a white poly-cotton voile from Mood found here.

The poly-cotton voile lining is light, sheer, wrinkle resistant, and provided much needed body to the giant polka dot fabric. Experimenting with the collar led me to try a light-weight linen from the stash, which provided a gentle contrast to the polka dot voile.

Originally I planned to use the polka-dot voile for the sleeves until I noticed a scrap of the lining lying next to the bodice. It was a much appreciated aha moment and the rest fell into place!

I anchored the sleeves with linen cuffs and repeated the linen in the lower bands to provide continuity. Since I prefer my tunics slightly fitted, I added an invisible zipper in the side seam,

but the original back darts were omitted as they interfered with the fabric design, leaving the back slightly loose.

It seems a lesson appears in nearly every sewing project, and this one was all about the importance of contrasts. I’ve always thought of contrast in terms of color – black/white or blue/red etc…. rather than texture, but no more! It’s time to wake up from the obvious and notice the beauty of subtlety at every juncture

Until soon.

PS……. the polka dot voile also comes in turquoise!

Had I planned to be gone for over two weeks I would have announced a short leave of absence. I’ve been sewing like crazy on non-blog related projects, one of which involved sewing red cheerleading skirts for grown men participating in a Cancer Association fundraiser – thankfully it was a great success

I’m happy to be back and am in the midst of some stash busting. This project, inspired by the hundreds of shapeless tops I see online and in the stores was an immediate gratification project, and one I hope to fine tune next time around.

The pattern Vogue 8950 was completed from start to finish yesterday afternoon.

I skipped out on making a muslin, and although my top very much resembles the sketch, I did not achieve the ‘semi-fitted’ fit found in the pattern description.

I combined the remnant of a black mystery knit purchased at Mood Fabrics (sewn many times before), with a flexible black cotton eyelet also purchased from Mood.

I doubt either of these fabrics are still available, but in my opinion a better choice for the top would be one of Mood’s fantastic mesh fabrics offered in several colors and designs, my favorite being the Wonder Mesh – I want some!

Many aspects of the pattern worked well for this project. The neckline is finished with a narrow hem which is a perfect technique for the eyelet, and the high/low hemline provided a visual balance for the loose fit. My only change to the pattern was converting the two-piece long sleeve into a single piece.

This basic pattern is truly a keeper with loads of possibilities – check out one of my inspiration sites here on the Sak’s page! I know I’m going to love the top – not only is it cool, but the sleeves are mosquito proof – reason enough to give that Power Mesh a try!

Back to more Summer Stash Busting!

Be back soon